I should never start off my day without food. I get grumpy. I am not sure if it is actually a low blood sugar disorder, or lately just my need to replace the calories spent climbing up and down the hill to the Prague Castle which is near where we are temporarily residing.
Yesterday morning after a very long walk with Lexi, we ventured to a very charming, little cafe/bakery/wine bar called Cukrkávalimonáda (Pronounced something like cookra-kaava-leemonaada). We didn’t arrive till noon, so I needed to eat to say the least. This is not a very big place, you can walk in and seat yourself, and like many dining establishments in Prague — dogs are allowed inside! While close to the Charles Bridge — it is a bit tucked away from the tourist hubbub. It also has a very warm, rustic-chic feeling that I designer like myself can appreciate, and a very nice fresh juice bar.
Healthy, fresh fruit juice aside, they are known for having just about the best hot chocolate in Prague. Obviously I had to partake. I can only describe this beverage as something akin to dark chocolate pudding that has yet to solidify. My taste buds were in heaven, my blood sugar was spiking, and my hips were threatening to expand. This did NOT, however, agree with me on an empty stomach, and the wait for the food was not especially fast. When it did arrive, I was exceptionally pleased with both the yummy taste & presentation.
Then it was a march back up the hill and endless, steep steps to deliver Diplo-dog back home so that Steve and I could do a little unencumbered sight-seeing. We decided to take the tram to Old Town to check out the street scene and see some of the monuments (each worthy of their own blog post). We walked for several hours, and by 5PM Steve said the look in my eyes was frightening. Yes, I needed to eat. Again. He quickly suggested that we grab a bite on our walk back.
They say you should never go to the grocery store hungry. I say you should never agree to eat Czech peasant food when starving, especially choosing one at random in one of the most touristy sections of town. I looked at the menu. Not my cup of tea.
Steve glanced through the entrance and spotted pretzels (his favorite) on all of the rustic, outdoor tables. “We are going in”, he said diplomatically. “You will love it!” They did boast having the “BEST BEER”, so I figured “why not??”
The beer was remarkably good, and under around $2 US. I can’t say the same for my small bottle of water that was almost $5! For economy sake — it is clear why I will need to join the Czech custom of drinking beer to hydrate.
I cannot say the same about the food, and maybe it is just that I am too much of a foodie as well as having a general desire to nourishingly feed the temple that is my body. Steve’s expression does not accurately express the feeling he had about his meal. I think he rather enjoyed the lamb and bread dumplings soaked in greasy gravy, but was reacting to my wincing that was going on at the other side of the table.
I ordered duck with roasted cabbage & apples. The duck was identifiable and I ate it because I was famished. To be fair — it was tender. Steve suggested that I use my fingers which was not happening after discovering that the restaurant restroom not only didn’t have toilet paper, but soap!! The older woman in the kitchen just scowled at me when I pointed this out. I repeat – I am a bit of health nut and neglected to bring my Purell with me. Won’t happen again. This was gastronomic distress for me which is fitting since apparently this restaurant has a bit of history related to torture & uncleanliness…..
The building today houses the Which Lesser Plzeň pub (Lesser pub) stands on the site of a former hangman’s house from 1664. This form of capital punishment was Established in the Middle Ages. For the Entire period, Executioners were deemed unclean and were not Entitled to all civil rights
I have no doubt that I will find many restaurants in this wonderful city that please both my sense of sensible eating, and Steve’s desire to find the best traditional restaurant. More exploring to come.